Hugh & Crye is a Washington, DC-based shirting company that focuses on fit. Instead of small, medium, and large, their sizing is based on body types—short, skinny, and athletic aren't adjectives, they're one of the many shirting options guys can choose from to find the perfect fit. That strategy caught on with guys who just want a better fitting button-up shirt. They've also brought us things like spread collar button-downs. Their latest shirts are a series of soft, washed, plaid casuals. We caught up with founder Pranav Vora to talk about the new collection, the Italian fabrics they're using and why there's a place for the point collar in every guy's closet.
This collection is a first for us. To us, most casual shirts either lack design sensibility (think dragon embroidery) or enough structure (think perpetually wrinkled and disposable). Our casual shirts have just enough interlining to feel substantive but not too rigid. We put them through a garment wash to give a softer hand feel and wearability. Other details like breast pockets and contrast sleeve bindings give a bit more personality. Collared shirts are a sort of uniform for the modern man, but banker stripes aren't always necessary. Our customers wanted the comfort of a T-shirt without sacrificing fit. That's our goal here.
I think there's always a place for at least one point collar in a guy's closet. Point collars tend to look a bit better dressed up. For most of our shirts, the collar is the primary defining characteristic. We took a different approach with this collection. The fabric patterns and the washed feel are more prominent than the collar.
They're lightweight poplins, in festive plaids from an Italian mill, Tessitura Monti. The Denali shirt is cut from a heavier twill—the weight almost gives it the feel of a work shirt. All have been washed using environmentally safe methods to produce a softer hand feel.
Try to avoid the untucked look unless your shirt tails fall just past the waist; they shouldn't cover your entire butt. The untucked look can easily portray sloppiness and "I still live with my parents" on younger guys. Older guys can look like they're going through a mid-life crisis and just bought a black leather couch. When in doubt, tuck in your shirt.