The Show

02.14.09, 3 pm, Pier 59 Studios, West Side Hwy.

The Collection

Backstage, Ervell explained the inspiration for the collection was "the type of clothes that masculine women wear." That lesbian chic translated into boxy blazers, zippered fleece jackets and narrow wool pants shown in the sunny sliver of a show space, scented with burning incense. Styled with no real accessories, details were limited to tissue-thin windbreaker hoods and laceless oxfords by Common Projects.

 

The Show

02.15.09, 3 pm, 205 West 39th St. (Video)

The Collection

After showing in Milan for nearly a decade, the Calvin Klein label returned to New York fashion week. Always rooted in clean lines and austere minimalism, designer Italo Zucchelli managed to merge classic tailoring with futurism with the debut of a new fabric for the aerodynamic Tron-esque jackets and pants. A technique used in Italy for bike seats, Zucchelli bonded wool to a foam base. "It's sleek, modern and actually very warm."

 

The Show

02.13.09, 1 pm, Bryant Park, the Salon (Video)

The Collection

A mix of urbane and athletic, designers Seven Cox and Daniel Silver showed blazers and topcoats that were finished with protective accessories—ski-masks, stocking caps with a plume of pompom or oversized blanket scarves. Waxed cotton jackets and safety country orange added a reminder of tough durability. The shoes, a collaboration by the label and Floresheim, made for touch of city-boy polish.

 

The Show

02.13.09, 6 pm, Focus Studio, 599 11th Ave.

The Collection

The check-in line wrapped around the block for Geller's show, after winning the GQ Best New Designer award days earlier. Inspired by Vienna at the turn of the last century, the collection was a mix of American Gothic and Interview with a Vampire. Layered sweaters and snug officer jackets were shown along tailored blazers and dip-dyed shirting. Accessories ranged from flat-brimmed hats, floppy bow ties and slim leather gloves.

 

The Show

02.13.09, 4 pm, Cedar Lake, 547 W 26th St. (Video)

The Collection

Fresh from a trip to Japan, designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright presented urban samurai looks to tunes "curated and edited by Thom Yorke," according to the program. Leather fencing jackets, ninja pants and a "bullet proof tux shirt" added to the warrior mentality while jewelry by Lauren Bucquet and the label's own lace-up sneakers softened the collection.

 

The Show

02.15.09, 12 pm, 408 Broadway

The Collection

Drawing inspiration from 1967's La Chinoise by Jean-Luc Godard (the same filmmaker behind the movie that inspired the label's name), designer Scott Sternberg does what he does best—take classic pieces (duffle jackets, tweed blazers or wool suits) and make them modern and cool. Never one to shy away from the details, accessories ranged from new versions of the Sperry Top-Sider collaboration and an assortment of ties and hats.

 

The Show

02.12.09, 5 pm, 723 Washington St.

The Collection

If Azzulo's last collection was made for prepsters looking for a fun-loving summer, his guy this fall will be a bit a tougher—prepared for the rough stuff city living brings. Inspired by the mod sensibility of Mick Jagger in the 60s, Azzuolo showed roped shoulder jackets (some with mink collars), nipped waistcoats and slim flannel pants. To add a bit of street to the chic, he tucked pants into boots and finished looks with fingerless gloves and slim stocking caps.

 

The Show

02.15.09, 6 pm, 540 West 26th St.

The Collection

Hamilton said he mined the ethos of early 20th century Vienna for fall. The result? A geometric feel brought to his signature striped sweaters and a more structured, tailored look. Colors were dark, punctuated with two scarlet red suits. There wasn't much in way of accessories, other than the look of invisible ties and for the second season, Hamilton enlisted the Carol Christian Poell's bootmaker in Vienna for footwear.

 

The Show

02.16.09, 5 pm, Pier 90, 711 Twelfth Ave. (Video)

The Collection

Creative director Alessandro Sartori slicked the runway with water, giving the effect that these guys were taking on mean city streets, armed with nothing more than sharply tailored three-piece suits, a well-fitting car coat and a man bag. There was a mix of dandyism and punk, with crisp dark suits peppered with buttons and safety pins. Adding to the gentleman factor, nearly every guy that walked was topped with snug bowler hat.

 

The Show

02.16.09, 6 pm, 637 W. 27th St. (Video)

The Collection

If there's one thing Bastian knows, it's insouciant luxury. The designer began the fall show with a quote from Walt Whitman and the collection referenced Kerouac-esque drifters with its toggle cardigans, waxed cotton coats and washed flannel trousers. Accessories ranged from shearling caps and camo bow ties mixed with Army Surplus boots. These lucky hitchhikers conveniently remembered to pack the Amex.

 

The Show

02.17.09, NY State Armory, 68 Lexington Ave. (Video)

The Collection

Marc Jacobs showed those classic looks from his Marc line—slouchy, sometimes zippered pants, bright knits and quirky, vintage-inspired jackets. The layers were long and many. Details, like scarves and silk ties, were mismatched and rumpled, as if you pulled them from the bottom of the pile. Every look was finished with a pair of loosely-tied sneakers.High-tops, mostly, of course.

 

The Show

02.14.09, 107 Grand St.

The Collection

The first runway show for Chai's menswear line, the designer concentrated on developing his signature of tailored jackets and layered sweaters, all with details like clever zippers, reverse seams and trims. This collection had a slight refined workwear feel, a hodgepodge of military uniforms and plaids—all anchored by rugged boots.