The Show

02/13/10, 6 pm, Milk Studios, 450 W. 15th St.

The Collection

Scott Sternberg's show looked like the set of a Wes Anderson film—from the snow covered parking meters and a vintage Jaguar to a Jason Schwartzman cameo. This season perked up preppy staples by adding wide, clear buttons to blazers paired with bright shirts and cozy billed knit caps and pop-over gloves. On the footwear front, a pair of saddle oxfords debuted among more Sperry Topsiders in such unorthodox materials as bushy fur.

 

The Show

02/14/10, 8 pm, Milk Studios, 450 W. 15th St.

The Collection

Reid hosted an event where the space was sparse but the whiskey was free. Covering the floor with leaves from his Alabama home, the collection was a cross-section of distinctly American generations. There were hints of newsboys with a little bit of bootlegger, shearling-lined coats and aviator jackets that recalled the Spirit of St. Louis, and plenty of handmade, quality footwear. Together they formed a fashionable melting pot.

 

The Show

02/13/10, 3 pm, Milk Studios, 450 W. 15th St.

The Collection

The CFDA-runner up definitely raised the bar here. While still utilizing trademarks like the club collar, he managed to incorporate backpacks, transparent rain gear and a mostly subdued color palette—save for a few bright red pieces—to create silhouettes that blur the line between tapered and draped. Finishing off the look with Doc Martens, the overall collection managed to pull together elements of a day-to-day uniform without being boring.

 

The Show

02/11/10, 1 pm, Bryant Park, The Salon

The Collection

Seven Cox and Daniel Silver are mad for plaid and cropped pants this season. Heavy coats—including standouts like a tennis-ball yellow peacoat and a red wool harrington—were paired with cuffed pants and combat boots. Multiple pops of color, especially red, balanced out the darker trousers and muted tweeds. The pair topped off looks with a velvety billed fez, calling out their Spring collection, which had plenty of Moroccan tones.

 

The Show

02/12/10, 8 pm, Exit Art, 475 10 Ave.

The Collection

Geller's romantic view of dressing never dies. His latest offering mixed fur vests with broken-in motorcycle jackets, derby hats and accents of aubergine. The designer also introduced a line of rugged city boots made in collaboration with Common Projects. Although the collection does feature some wide striped suits and totally luxe-looking overcoats, it never looks too dressed up—and that's the point.

 

The Show

02/10/10, 6:30 pm, Hudson & Broad, 174 Hudson St.

The Collection

Bartlett has a penchant for ruggedness and masculinity, so it's no surprise that despite the snow storm, the designer's show went on. Now, Bartlett admits the snow added to the collection's wintry, outdoorsy theme. Mixing a variety of textures, patterns and fabrics that wouldn't seem out-of-place at a riding club, he was especially proud of his double-breasted houndstooth overcoat—the most expensive piece in the collection.

 

The Show

02/14/10, 7 pm, Exit Art, 475 Tenth Ave.

The Collection

With every up-and-coming label, there's a collection where the designer breaks from his or her modis operandi and goes in a new direction. Bastian's guy for fall is one part classic American, one part Saville Row with a heavy dash of soccer hooligan with models stomping on broken glass down the runway—in Doc Martens no less. It was preppy through the eyes of a punk and it added just the right amount of edge to the collection.

 

The Show

02/12/10, 12:30 pm,
82 Mercer St.

The Collection

Previously Marcus Wainwright and David Neville have offered tailored collections influenced by rockers and ninjas. This season, the two returned to their rugged roots. Backstage, the two spoke of the English explorers who hiked Everest in the 1930s as inspiration. Thick, wooly socks? Check. Shearling, tweeds and camo? Check. And with each thoughtful layer was another item that both hinted to the past and spoke to the modern man.

 

The Show

02/14/10, 12 pm, Altman Building, 135 W. 18th St.

The Collection

Ever the Englishman, Simon Spurr knows his way around a well-tailored double-breasted jacket. And there were plenty here—from suit coats to leather jackets. A departure from the more denim-focused SPURR, this showcased a subtle, discreet luxury—expertly cut coats, wool suits with the faintest sheen and briefcases made to hold a proper umbrella. Yet everything was masculine. Make no mistake, these gentleman are no dandies.

 

The Show

02/15/10, 10 am, Milk Studios, 450 W. 15th St.

The Collection

Playing with proportion has become something of a Hallmark for Chai. This collection of extra-long cardigans, oversized plaid shirts and slouchy pants proved that he knows what he's doing. The clothes were relaxed (and at times, roomy) but never sloppy. Easy layers of soft, textured fabrics, the results were as comfortable as they were handsome. And that's the type of dressing that guys could get used to.

 

The Show

02/15/10, 3 pm, The Park Avenue Armory, 643 Park Ave.

The Collection

After last season's claustrophobic show at Browne's Tribeca shop, the designer moved to the cavernous Park Avenue Armory where the audience was spread among various candlelit parlors. And it wasn't only the venue that grew this season. Sweaters, jackets and bags had all been super-sized, proving the man who introduced the shrunken, ankle-baring style has evolved past the gray flannel suit.

 

The Show

02/17/10, 2 pm, The Tent, Bryant Park

The Collection

The first runway showing of Lim's ever-expanding men's line was a study in contradictions. Belted coats and pleated riding pants recalled the past, while metallic buttons and gleaming leather trim hinted towards the future. There were also protective accessories—quilted chest armor, shin guards and gauntlet gloves. The kind of clothes meant for tackling the rough terrain of the concrete jungle.