09.14.09, 6 pm, Exit Art, 475 Tenth Ave.
Bastian's known for perfected American basics, but his Spring collection was Americana by way of Latin America. There was romance and vulnerability built into many of the looks, which ranged from now signature cut-off shorts (some with boxers peeking out) to perfectly tailored blazers worn with cashmere Baja sweaters. Piaget watches and Bastian-designed evening slippers by Stubbs & Wooton added a final touch of luxe.
09.12.09, 6 pm, Milk Studios, 450 W. 15th St.
Scott Sternberg said his inspiration for Spring came from watching old Jacques Cousteau films (notice the trademark stocking cap). Of course, this being Band of Outsiders, a reference is never as simple as it seems. The casual masculinity of Cousteau made the tailored preppy looks a tad more relaxed and rough around the edges. A meditation on California sunsets resulted in much-talked about dip-dyed shirts and ties.
09.10.09, 3 pm, 723 Washington St.
Just four seasons in, Azzuolo has already established some signatures. You know you'll get great rope-shouldered suits, precision-tailored shirts and a few dandy pops of color. This season, the designer's finery was injected with a shot of rock 'n roll thanks to inspiration by the father of rock dandies, David Bowie. It lent a cool dishelvement to the buttoned-up looks, where blazer sleeves were torn-off and jeans were bleached and cut into shorts.
09.10.09, 1 pm, Bryant Park, the Salon
After an ominous fall collection, Steven Cox and Daniel Silver looked to sunnier skies for Spring. An exaggeration on old-school Hollywood, the casual collection (featuring not one pair of pants) was breezy and bright. Layers, like an over-sized madras plaid printed on a short-sleeve shirt, were loose and light. While some pieces (retro bathing suits) might be a stretch, this was certainly the label's most accessible collection to date.
09.13.09, 7 pm, Astor Place Hair Salon, 2 Astor Place
Wanting to instill their line with an old school masculinity, Anthony Keegan and Richard Christiansen staged their presentation—the first real showing of the new label—at an iconic Manhattan barbershop. The collection of trim blazers, shirts with matching bow ties and tailored shorts was not unlike a good haircut. Uncomplicated, precise, with just the right amount of personality to make you feel sort of special.
09.11.09, 7 pm, Exit Art, 475 Tenth Ave.
Geller's certainly enjoying a much-deserved moment. So whether it's his newfound notoriety, the success of his Levi's collaboration or simply "that redemptive power of spring" he spoke about backstage, this collection was positively upbeat. Just as poetic as his darker, moodier collections, there was a lightness to the layers he so expertly puts together. That, paired with the deep ocean blues and greens, you couldn't help but leave smiling.
09.15.09, 4 pm, New York State Armory, 68 Lexington Ave.
Marc Jacobs can always make a bad 80s look feel somewhat cool and less clichéd. Technicolor fair isle sweaters, graphics in riotous neons and mismatched patterns were grounded with monochromatic, velcro-strapped tennis shoes. There were simple pieces, like shrunken sweatshirts and shorts, peppered throughout the collection. But only to remind the audience that misfits always have more fun.
09.11.09, 5 pm, Cedar Lake, 547 W. 26th St.
Military, masculine, wearable. These are the buzzwords that are often heard (and thought) at a Rag & Bone show. Case in point: A cavalry jacket had the old regimental details the label's known for, but when worn with drainpipe jeans, had a slight rocker edge (we later learned the coat was dubbed "the Hendrix"). So while these might not be your breezy, summer vacation clothes, there's nothing wrong with beating the heat with a tough, urbane look.
09.10.09, 4 pm, Skyline Gallery, 500 W. 36th St.
Inspired by 1970s playboys, Simon Spurr showed a few casual pieces like denim shirts and suede safari jackets while experimenting with new suit shapes that all had a slick, retro sex appeal. Thankfully, the fit and tailoring Spurr's known for remained. The big unveil, of course, was the news that he'd just hired former Bergdorf Goodman director Tommy Fazio as the company's first president. Spring may be Spurr's biggest season thus far.
09.11.09, 3 pm, 511 W. 25th St.
For the first time, Phillip Lim showed his men's line on its own. It was a statement that he was upping his game, and the presentation—guys lounging in small, sparsely furnished rooms—seemed to convey that. The minimalist vignettes complimented the similarly pared down clothing. Simple jackets and carrot-shaped pants in a dark palette of grays and neutrals. "It doesn't always have to be about bright colors," Lim said. "You wear navy all year, don't you?"
09.14.09, 5 pm, Pier 59, West Side Highway
Some things you know you'll get from Patrik Ervell. Sharp tailored suits and the perfect slim-collard shirt, for example. But then there are the surprises, like the pearl-encrusted sweater last season. For spring, Ervell wanted his clothes colored with the varying shades of oxidized metals. So he literllay stained fabrics with rust, and brushed it with steel wool, and dyed it with copper fibers. Cerebral, yes, but also pretty damn good looking.
09.12.09, 4 pm, Cedar Lake, 547 W. 26th St.
Richard Chai offered up an uncomplicated collection for Spring that played with the notion of balance. There were loose layers of matching fabrics and then shrunken suiting worn with trim polos and neat button-downs. His low-slung, wide-leg pants were of particular interest. A refreshing new take that looked at once both comfortable and cool. They certainly had people talking after the show.