The Essential Jean Lineup

Can a man survive with only one pair of jeans? Of course. And if you only have one pair, let them be raw, crisp and inky in color. With a straight cut, these classic jeans pair just as well with your favorite T-shirt and retro sneakers as they do with a blazer and tie.

You can buy 'em washed and pre-distressed, but of course, the best broken-in jeans are the ones that you purchased dark (see above) and wore and washed until you realized you needed another raw pair. Soft as a pair of sweatpants, they can still be dressed up with an oxford cloth button down and a knit tie. And no jeans look better with a tweed jacket.

Black jeans can be tricky to pull off, but a pair of grey jeans has become something of a contemporary classic in the last few years. A trim pair with a slightly relaxed fit can stand in for a pair of flannel trousers—looking just as sharp with a fresh white shirt and a navy blazer or a chunky fisherman's sweater.

White jeans aren't for every guy—they take a bit of confidence. And stocky or shorter guys can have a harder time pulling them off. But when they work, they work well—offering up a clean, crisp look that pairs particularly well with dark, solid sweaters, khaki blazers and desert boots. They may be hard to find this time of year, but don't be afraid of a little winter white. "I wear them year round, though I do try to avoid the rainy days," says designer Victor Glemaud.