New Labels Embrace a Tough Love for the Past

Born in Memphis, Tennessee and raised in Minnesota, Chris and Kirk Bray have had the name of their line under their belt since they were kids. "My father called me Billy Kirk, melding my name William and Kirkland together as a term of endearment," explains Kirk. "It's a very southern thing to do." They started off with watchbands—using only the finest domestic and Italian leathers while hand treating the hides with natural oils and beeswax. While living in L.A., they apprenticed under a third generation leather maker and learned the many tricks of the trade. After moving east to New York, they began utilizing the talents of the Amish. The result was a match made in heaven. The Pennsylvania people hand make many of the belts, wallets, satchels and bags which are then finished off in-house. The results? Handsome lap top bags, belts and even unconventional pieces like a swank pair of cufflinks.

Available at Barneys, New York; Douglas Fir, Los Angeles and Billy Kirk

Jason Gregory's sturdy collection of leather goods—all hand sewn and assembled by family run companies in the US—were inspired by rustic relics found in his grandfather's basement. A pilot who traversed the globe, his granddad's old camera cases and luggage brought Gregory out of his corporate job mentality and into the world of luxury leather. In 2005, the Orlando-based designer started with made-to-order pieces, but demand grew and he launched a full line of goods including card holders, wallets, totes and, of course, camera cases. Contrast is a subtle signature of the line. Leather is laser cut, yet hand sewn and soft deerskin is paired with industrial wovens. This spring, he'll release the new 1.5 collection, focusing on even less adornment and swankier materials. And keep an eye out for an expanded selection of wallets as well as three top-secret products, all made in his workshop in small batches.

Available at Blackbird, Seattle; Freeman's Sporting Club, New York and Makr

They're not distracted by the world's marketing machine. They have no idea who the Rolling Stones are or that we're at war.

- Chris Bray of Billykirk, on working with the Amish.

Leather looks better beat up. Age leather by dampening, then tossing into the dryer to slightly crack and soften the skin. Add subtle wear and scratches on edges and corners with sandpaper.