An

Underrated
Red

It's summer, and while we're all starting to gear up for fall, there's still plenty of warm evenings ahead, rife with opportunities to pour a crisp glass of Lambrusco. The underrated red suffered a backlash by some vinophiles after the unfortunate rise of a 1970s Riunite campaign which called for it to be served on ice, but it may be your new favorite summer wine. Dry, tangy and low in alcohol, it's the perfect pairing for an outdoor meal. Rich and purple in color, it has a slight effervescence, frizzante in Italian, and is meant to be served just slightly chilled. Le Grotte's Reggiano Lambrusco, which can be found for less than $10, has a velvety cherry flavor, with an earthy quality that's less peppery than others. It's a subtle wine, perfect for Beaujolais fans or those who say red wine's too oaky and bitter.

$5, in-store at Trader Joe's, or $10, online at Nick's

• The Emilia-Romagna region in Italy makes the most Lambruscos in the world.