Cold Creek Riesling 2006 (Washington), $19.99 at Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Peter Lehmann Riesling 2004 (Australia), $12.99, at Wine.com.

Clean Slate Riesling 2007 (Germany), $9.50, at WineChateau.com.

Ask any sommelier worth his corkscrew what's the most under-appreciated wine, and he'll undoubtedly say Riesling. Often mistaken as invariably sweet and a neophyte's favorite, Riesling's on the rebound with vinophiles who like a crisp white that's a power house in the pairing department. It seems wine is like fashion—in time, everything comes back in style.

• How to: Decipher a Label