The Handbook - How To Guides
 
 
 
31 Days: Style Tips and Tricks
 
Volume 4
 

All the tips and tricks needed to shape up for 2012. Each day brings new, expert advice on how to look your best and live life to the fullest, while having a little fun doing it.

Clothes
Day
17

A Pocket Explainer

Everything you ever wanted to know about your jackets' pockets ... but were afraid to ask.

 
Casual
Bellows Pocket

A patch pocket with an expansion pleat in the middle and gussets on the sides which allow the pockets to open wide. Often seen on safari jackets and hunting vests and jackets (along with cargo pants). Because of the bulk, these are best left to leaner guys.

Patch Pocket

A simple single piece of cloth sewn directly onto the front of the jacket. Traditionally a more sporty style, it's often found on blazers, linen or seersucker suits, along with other more casual jackets. The clean lines make these jackets a good choice for larger men.

Flap Pocket

The standard side pocket, sewn into the lining of the jacket, with an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top. Initially created to protect the contents of the pocket from the elements, the flaps were once tucked in when indoors—a practice no longer observed.

Ticket Pocket

Located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide, these were once reserved for "country suits," to conveniently store a train ticket. Today, they've become a mark of craftsmanship and style, akin to working buttons on your cuffs—not necessary, but nice to have.

Jetted Pocket

Often found on more formal pieces like tuxedos and dinner jackets, these have the same sleek, low-profile as a flap pocket with its flap tucked in, with a small strip of fabric taping at the top and bottom of the pocket's horizontal opening.

Formal
 

FYI

Pockets are often sewn shut on new garments to facilitate the easiest pressing and to keep it presentable in the store. Open them by removing the thread with a seam ripper.

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