Lunchtime Long Read

Cooking Lessons

Disillusioned with fine dining, one of the greatest chefs in the world decided to take on fast food. The challenges he encountered make an 8 pm Friday night shift at his two-Michelin star restaurant look easy.

It is one to build a brand and a burger, of course, and quite another to launch a viable business in Watts, a 2-square-mile community of 41,000 people with high unemployment, organized gangs at each of its four major housing projects, and exactly two sit-down dinner restaurants—a Subway and a Popeyes."