The Handbook - How To Guides, How To Clothes, How To Tie a Tie

 
 

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Clothes

Explainer
Shirt Collars
 
 

Point

Standard for business, this versatile style works well with a jacket and tie or opened up for after work cocktails. The crisply pressed points come in varying length and offer a dressier option than a button-down. Plus, the longer points slim the face and frame your tie's knot.

 

Spread

This British classic has an unequivocal air of elegance. If you're going to sport this look, you better be prepared to tie a big knot (perhaps a Windsor, sir?).

 

Button-down

This distinctly American look rose to prominence in the Ivy Leauge during the 1920s. Which may explain its rakish devil-may-care attitude when worn casually. Dress it up with a knit tie or wear it open and roll up the sleeves.

 
  • The detachable collar was apparently invented by a housewife in the early 1800s that grew tired of washing so many of her husband's shirts.
 

Tab

Designed to fit higher on the neck, the tab pulls the collar points down while lifting the knot of your tie closer to the chin. Buttoned up, it's a tad formal and sophisticated. Unbuttoned, it's dashing and nostalgic.

 

Banker's

Originally, this formal white collar was detachable from the shirt, usually in a different colored fabric. The contrast made for a stylistic flourish, and it has enjoyed a recent surge in popularity (by labels from Dsquared2 to Club Monaco). Of course, the shirt now comes in one piece.

 

Club

This narrow collar has a slightly rounded edge and became very popular in the first few decades of the 20th Century. It too, has been reintroduced by such sentimental labels as Ralph Lauren.

 
 

FYI

Brooks Brothers invented the button-down collar in 1896. They now offer an updated version in a modern, tapered fit. Slim fit oxford, $79.50 at Brooks Brothers.
 
 

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