Patch Things Up

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Question

I've been seeing a lot of jackets and sweaters with elbow patches lately. I like the look of them, but don't want to look too stuffy. What do you think?
- Ben, Denver


Question
We understand the aversion to looking like a pipe-smoking fogey in your elbow-patched tweed blazer. But we're also noticing the moment the little leather patches seem to be having right now. And if Cary Grant and Hemingway could pull of the well-worn gentleman's look, then damnit, so can you. Modern versions by such retro-inspired labels as Rugby and Hickey have caught our eye, but none seem to be as cool as Engineered Garments' unstructured, wool sportcoat. Bedford jacket, $415, at Odin, New York.

Winter Formal

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Question

Where can I find a tuxedo for under $500 in a style that will last a few years? Also, can I forgo patent leather shoes with a tux?
- Joshua, Los Angeles (by way of New York)


Question
This took some digging. Most tux options for less than $500 are ill-fitting polyester monstrosities not fit for the prom. Then we happened upon this gem at the mall store Express of all places. Cut from lightweight wool crepe, the jacket has such classic features as satin peak lapels and a tuxedo stripe down the legs. But modern updates like a slimmer fit, slightly higher arm holes and a double-vent in back keep you from looking like you rented.

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Soft Spot

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Question

I'd like to invest in some quality cashmere sweaters this winter, but I'm confused on all the price ranges and thicknesses. What gives?
- Rob, Chicago


Question
Cashmere comes in a range of weights from two-ply (which is tissue thin) to a eighteen-ply (think those thick hand-knit sweaters). The "ply" in this case means threads, so two-ply means two threads twisted together and then knitted; eighteen means just that: eighteen. That's not to say that two-ply is the cheap stuff nobody wants--it often makes for lighter sweaters perfect for layering under a jacket. The price does depend on the ply, but more importantly on the quality of the yarn. Lesser yarns, made from short fibers that break and pill easily, will certainly cost less. A quality piece of cashmere will cost you as little as $99 for Uniqlo's sought-after sweaters to upwards of a grand for Italian label Loro Piana. Uniqlo, $99.50, available by calling 877.4.UNIQLO. APC, $220, available at Blackbird and Apc.fr.

The Fall Guy

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Question

For those of us in California, what do you recommend for a 68-degree autumn day without looking like you're still wearing your summer clothes or sweating through East Coast appropriate wool?
- Spencer, Los Angeles


Question
A "fall look" is really about layers. Substitute a heavy wool blazer with a lightweight cardigan. Or how about a waist coat? The leaves are practically falling out of this traditional tweed version by Rugby. The style may be East Coast influenced, but its cotton canvas back means it's West Coast approved. Pair it with other fall fabrics like a pair of narrow pinwale corduroys and layer the vest over a shirt and tie. Feel free to roll up your sleeves and loosen the knot to ensure that laid-back Cali vibe. Tweed vest, $125, at Rugby.

Winging It

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Question

I want to get a pair of wing tips I can wear often, but I can't seem to find any decent looking ones of any quality for less than $300. Help!
- Jacob, San Leandro, CA


Question
"It can be daunting to find a pair of stylish shoes strong enough to take a daily beating. But the task is not impossible. Bostonian, which has been crafting quality men's shoes for more than a century, offers a rakish take on the traditional wingtip. Available in black and oxblood full-grain leather or chocolate suede, the brogues will look just as good with your suit and tie as they will with jeans and puffer vest. $100 (with free shipping), at Zappos.com.

Shrinkage Fears

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Question

I want a pair of raw Levi's 501s, but I know they're supposed to shrink. Do I wash them before wearing? Or buy a size up?
- Sean, Philadelphia


Question
"Fit is as inherent to denim as it was when we invented the blue jean back in 1873," says Brett Anderson, of Levi's. "The general rule of thumb with our Shrink-to-Fit fabric is to buy the jean 1 to 2 inches up in the waist and 3 to 4 inches longer in the inseam." So for a 32x32, he suggests increasing to a 34x35. "Before wearing them, I'd wash them by hand in warm water, without soap. Soak for at least 15 minutes, moving the jean periodically to prevent the settling of the dyes." He did, of course, remind us there are many who buy the 501s in their exact size and then simply never wash them. $46, at Levi's.

A Vested Interest

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Question

I really want my boyfriend to get a sweater vest, but he thinks they'd make him look nerdy. I think they're hot, what do you guys think?
- Melissa, Boston


Question
Well, we're on your side. As the seasons change, a sweater vest is any easy way of adding a layer for warmth (and style) while still keeping relatively cool on those sunny autumn days. They look great with a rumpled oxford on the weekend, under a blazer at the office or even with slim polo on the golf course. Of course, he's not entirely wrong in his assumption--there is a slight poindexter feel, but what's wrong with that? It's called geek chic for a reason.

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Cut Your Losses

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Question

I have a pretty big widow's peak in my hairline and it makes my hair look weird when I try to part it on the side. Can you suggest a haircut for this condition or a way to cope with my Eddie Munster hair?
- Luke, Bellevue, WA


Question
This one's easy. No need to 'cope,' with that fateful crowning point, embrace it--you'll be a better man because of it. But when your hair works against you, I say get rid of it. Buy yourself a pair of old-school clippers, click on a number 3 guard and buzz away. Think of Thom Browne, he's got a bit of a widow's peak and by keeping his 'do close and cropped, he's one of the most handsome guys in the game. Just think about all the money you'll save on haircuts.

Trench Warfare

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Question

I'd like to invest in a Burberry trench this fall, but I'm torn between a traditional or more modern style. And my bigger question is, if I wear it when it's not raining, does it make me look like a flasher?
- Michael, Boston


Question
The idea of investing in a piece tells me you'd like to have this piece for a while, and you should--it's a classic, masculine piece that will always be in style. Thus buying a modern, single-breasted option would be counterproductive to the overcoat's storied history. I'd suggest the British label's updated "Trench 19 Slim," which is a bit narrow, with higher arm holes for a slimmer fit while retaining the trench's classic proportions. After all, if you're buying from Burberry, the coat will likely outlive you. And don't worry about being a fair-weather wearer. A non-slicker raincoat is the cover when the air gets chilly. Slim-cut trench, $950, at Burberry.

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Bleeding Edge

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Question

I've been having really bad razor burn lately. I tried that "Tend Skin" tonic and it burned like a mother. Can you recommend something for the redness, bumps and pain?
- Brian, New York


Question
You may be surprised to know that the brand we favor is likely also a favorite of your mom's. Our go-to potion for rough morning shaves is Crabtree & Evelyn's Post-Shave Relief. Infused with green tea, Vitamin E and aloe, the cooling cream instantly eliminates redness and bumps. And since it's free of any fragrances, sulfates or dyes, it works with even the most sensitive of skin. Plus, it comes in a handsome apothecary-style metal tube with a silver key which slides onto the tube's end, allowing it to be rolled up neatly and evenly. Mom would be proud. $32 at Crabtree & Evelyn

How to: Get a Safe Shave

Got a Question?

Have a question about what to wear with your new suit? Looking for the right restaurant for a first date in Denver? What's the best way to get rid of that chest hair creeping up to your neck? Ask the Valet editors.

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