"Rather than one drink, the martini is now a set of variables and constants," writes Camper English in the latest issue of LA magazine. "Is it a vehicle for a preparation ritual akin to a tea ceremony or a simple two-ingredient cocktail?" The story explores the history of the king of all cocktails and recounts recipes from the 1880s (which included a dash of orange bitters) to the gin martini of the 1950s and even the abominable appletini of the oughties.