Back to Basics

Fall’s Coolest Shoe Is a Bonafide Classic

Back to Basics

Fall’s Coolest Shoe Is a Bonafide Classic

Loafers are an essential slip-on addition to your footwear rotation

Best men's loafers in 2023

The loafer has never really gone anywhere. Sure, there have been dips here and there, but the leather slip-on has always been a consistently cool shoe—a reliable and essential part of a man's footwear arsenal. But it feels like for Fall 2023, the loafer has never been more in demand. They certainly appeal to guys who are celebrating the return of prep, but they also speak to men who simply want an effortless shoe they can slide into as easily as a slipper. The added bonus? They're comfy as hell and there's not a single piece in your wardrobe that won't be enhanced by the addition of a loafer. Cropped jeans, wide-leg trousers or pleated chinos—they all work. That's the benefit of going with a timeless design.

Why This
Works Now

The loafer was originally designed to “loaf around in.” So there's an inherent relaxed nature to the laceless shoe, but the fine leather craftsmanship gives it a dressed-up elegance. Which means the shoe is suitable for weddings, job interviews, date nights or any other moment when you want to feel smart and stylish, but also comfortable.

That's not to say the loafer isn't evolving. But first, let's go back to 1936, when G.H. Bass introduced a shoe that would change his company (and American style) forever. Taking cues from a simple slip-on leather shoe from Norway, the now ubiquitous Weejun was born. Combining true hand-sewn moccasin construction—requiring one large piece of leather to wrap under and cradle the foot—with a leather dress sole and heel, G.H. Bass & Co. created a shoe that was both durable and extremely versatile. The company's addition of a leather strip across the upper with a unique half-moon cutout would come to define the Weejun, along with countless other penny loafers.

But if the loafer was born in Norway and came of age on American college campuses, it eventually expanded its reach into Europe, where cobblers started tweaking the design, resulting in sleek Italian styles or chunkier silhouettes, courtesy of British shoemakers. Now, you can find a wide range of styles and leather options by makers from all over the world, from the classic penny loafer to versions embellished with tassels and more modern lug soles. Consider this your soup-to-nuts guide to becoming a “loafer guy” all fall and winter.

Why This
Works Now

The loafer was originally designed to “loaf around in.” So there's an inherent relaxed nature to the laceless shoe, but the fine leather craftsmanship gives it a dressed-up elegance. Which means the shoe is suitable for weddings, job interviews, date nights or any other moment when you want to feel smart and stylish, but also comfortable.

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How to Get
the Right Fit

Chris Echevarria of Blackstock & Weber

Chris Echevarria, Blackstock & Weber's founder/creative director, knows the hallmarks of a well-fitting loafer.

“I always say the best fit is snug, but not 'circulation restricting' snug,” he warns. “Leather shoes have 'give' just like a pair of jeans, so you've got to remember that they'll stretch a bit. And if your feet sweat like crazy, you're only going to expedite that process.”

Loafer snug fit
Loafer breaking in process

And, of course, it all comes down to the last (the mold a shoe is made on). Echevarria says that a more “European shape” is slimmer and can sometimes feel constricting, so he beefed his up. “I discovered that a wider and more pronounced silhouette not only looks better but makes the shoe more comfortable.”

As for buying online, your best bet is to read the reviews to make sure they fit true to size or if you need to size up or down. Echevarria says to walk around in them on some carpet to ensure they're comfortable. If they're not, you can still exchange them for the right size.

Buying loafers online

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Anatomy
of a Loafer

Men's loafer design details

Vamp

Cutout

Strap/saddle

Lining

Heel
cap

Quarter

Heel

Shank/waist

Beef roll
stitching

Moccasin
stitching

Midsole

Outsole

Welt
stitching

Vamp

Cutout

Strap/saddle

Lining

Heel cap

Quarter

Heel

Shank/waist

Beef roll
stitching

Moccasin
stitching

Midsole

Outsole

Welt
stitching

The Best Loafers
in 2023

Classic

Hand-sewn the old-fashioned way, with a leather stacked outsole and storm welt, but finished with a rubber heel tap and forefoot for improved traction.

1876 Larson Weejun,
$295 by G.H. Bass

Drake's Charles Goodyear welted loafer

A sophisticated take on a classic, handcrafted in Northampton, England with a Goodyear-welted sole and a unique elliptic slot in the saddle strap.

Charles Goodyear
welted loafer,
$730 by Drake's

J.Crew Camden loafer

Traditional moc-toe loafer with beef roll stitching and leather lining, but the outsole is of sturdy rubber for added durability and comfort.

Camden loafer,
$158 by J.Crew

Grant Stone Traveler penny suede loafer

This pair is extremely lightweight and comfortable right out of the box, despite the traditional construction, including a Goodyear-welted leather outsole.

Traveler penny suede loafer,
$328 by Grant Stone

Morjas Suede penny loafer

Handcrafted in Spain from soft, premium suede with a streamlined silhouette and a Goodyear welt on a single leather sole.

Suede penny loafer,
$349 by Morjas

Vagabond Alex suede loafer

A chunkier, modern version of a penny loafer, these combine a moo-toe with a substantial rubber sole and a pronounced heel.

Alex suede loafer,
$190 by Vagabond

Kleman Dalior 2 loafer

A lightweight two-tone pair, made in France with a sleek silhouette and finished with a textured rubber outsole.

Dalior 2 loafer,
$167.50 by Kleman

Solovair Hi-Shine penny loafer

Stitched from super smooth polished leather, these loafers feature Goodyear-welted construction and rubber nub soles for added traction.

Hi-Shine penny loafer,
$199 by Solovair

GREATS Essex penny loafer

Handcrafted in Italy from premium leather with genuine moccasin construction, these have a leather stacked sole with a rubber forefoot.

Essex penny loafer,
$189 by GREATS

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Lug Sole

Handmade in Portugal from textured leather and Goodyear-welted Vibram rubber outsole, the brand says they “threw snow tires on a core classic.”

Ellis penny loafer,
$395 by Blackstock & Weber

Paraboot Reims loafer

Made in France, using genuine Norwegian-welted construction, they're finished with a piped seam along the toe and beef roll saddle strap.

Reims loafer,
$500 by Paraboot

Madewell x G.H. Bass Suede Larson loafer

This special collaboration uses premium suede (in rich green or this classic black) and finishes them with a soft leather lining and rubber lug sole.

Suede Larson loafer,
$185 by Madewell x G.H. Bass

Vinny's Richee penny loafer

Handmade in Portugal from soft nappa leather and finished with triangular cutouts on the saddle and lightweight Vibram Vi-Lite rubber lug soles.

Richee penny loafer,
$370 By Vinny's

Yuketen Hi-Loft quilt loafer

Hand-stitched in the U.S. using genuine moccasin construction from Horween waxed leather and ripstop nylon, grounded with an Italian-made lug sole.

Hi-Loft quilt loafer,
$760 by Yuketen

Beckett Simonon Fuentes loafer

A modern silhouette with a rounded toe and an elliptical cutout on the saddle. Lined in soft Vachetta leather and finished with a Blake-stitched EVA lug sole.

Fuentes loafer,
$219 by Beckett Simonon

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Tassel

Made in the U.S. and built on Alden's popular Aberdeen last and cut from a soft, snuff suede and finished with a leather Goodyear-welted outsole.

Tassel loafer,
$660 by Alden

Morjas Tassel loafer

These sleek loafers are made in Spain from a soft polished leather and finished with a slim Goodyear-welted rubber sole.

Tassel loafer,
$349 by Morjas

Blackstock & Weber Clasico tassel loafer

Handmade in Portugal with pebbled leather sourced from France's Tanneries Du Puy. They have a double leather sole and tassels knotted through the saddle.

Clásico tassel loafer,
$375 by Blackstock & Weber

Sanders Finchley tassel loafer

You don't find a better pair of English-made loafers for this price. They're crafted from smooth calf leather with a Goodyear-welted full leather sole and a soft glove leather lining.

Finchley tassel loafer,
$317.27 by Sanders

Allen Edmonds Grayson shell cordovan tassel loafer

These are built to last a lifetime. A shell cordovan upper is Goodyear-welted to extra sturdy oak-tanned leather soles from Redenbach tannery. But “CustomCork” insoles ensure all-day comfort.

Grayson shell
cordovan tassel loafer,
$750 by Allen Edmonds

Dr. Martens Adrian tassel loafer

These high-shined loafers have a kilt under the tassels and the brand's signature soles are heat-sealed and then sewn together for added comfort and durability

Adrian tassel loafer,
$150 by Dr. Martens

Breaking
Them In

There is really only way to really break in your new loafers: Wear them around. But not all day—that's a rookie mistake. We know you want to show them off, but this is a ritual that you shouldn't rush. Savor this time, because this is where you really bond with the shoes and let them mold to your foot's natural shape. With each wear, the leather slowly stretches, and the insole softens, allowing the loafer to take on a truly personalized fit. Trust us, the end result will be worth the effort you put in.

Start in intervals: Wear them around the house or office, an hour or two at a time.

Wear your thickest socks first: The socks will add pressure to the sides of the shoes, encouraging them to stretch. Remember to do this for short periods initially, gradually increasing the time as your shoes begin to loosen.

Use a secret weapon: Shoe snobs swear by Saphir's cream conditioner, which really penetrates the leather to moisten it and break up the tannins used to make it stiff yet durable. By conditioning the leather, you're softening it up and accelerating the break-in process.

Breaking in loafers

Maintenance

Loafer maintenance by Paraboot

Lived-in loafers are a mark of a well-traveled gentleman. This isn't about keeping your slip-on shoes “box fresh.” But regular cleaning and care will significantly extend the lifespan of your shoes. The experts at Paraboot say with a weekly (or even monthly) maintenance routine, you can avoid premature aging of the leather, protect against environmental damage and preserve the shoe's shape.

1

1

Dust off the leather
using a polishing brush.

2

2

Using a soft cloth, apply cleaning wax evenly on the shoe. Wax the leather with a small portion of polish on a clean cloth. Apply it in a circular motion. If the shoe has Norwegian or Goodyear welt stitching, apply colorless shoe polish using a small applicator brush to make it more waterproof.

3

3

Use shoe trees to maintain shape and to help the interior dry and a shoe horn to protect the heel cap and further extend the shoe's lifespan.

Suede loafers need cleaning?

Suede loafers need cleaning?

Maybe the once-luxe fuzzy nap is a bit deflated or the color is now a bit dingy and dull. No worries. In about five minutes, those shoes could look as good as new.

The Rules
to Break

Loaf rules to break

Loafers are Casual

Back in the day, loafers were casual shoes, but now, thanks to the loosening up of dress codes, loafers are acceptable in all but the most formal of situations. Plus, there's a certain relaxed elegance to them, so embrace it.

Morjas loafers ($349)
and Paul Smith socks ($30)

Loaf rules to break

Match Socks to Pants

Old sartorial wisdom dictated that a man should match his socks to his pants, so as not to distract from the line of his trousers. But that no longer applies. Especially when you're wearing the shoes casually. Try chunkier or textured socks to really make a statement.

Vinny's loafers ($370)
and Anonymousism socks ($24)

Loaf rules to break

Match Belt to Shoes

Another outdated rule was that the leather of your shoes needed to match your belt. That's not something you need to be concerned with. Maybe you're not wearing a belt. Maybe you're wearing a beat-up vintage or woven style. Anything and everything goes these days.

G.H. Bass loafers ($220)

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