The Handbook - How To Guides
 
 
 
31 Days: Style Tips and Tricks
 
Volume 2
 

All the tips and tricks needed to shape up for 2010. Each day brings new, expert advice on how to look your best and live life to the fullest, while having a little fun doing it.

Clothes
Day
6

Suit Shoulders

There are a lot of differentiators when it comes to suits—lapels, buttons, vents—but few shape the suit's silhouette as much as the shoulder. Herewith, a field guide to the international order of jacket shoulders.

 

American

Referred to in tailoring as the "natural shoulder," this has little to no padding and thus, follows the slope of your body's shoulders naturally. The definitive preppy jacket style.

British

The English have a proclivity for the stiffer things in life—drinks, upper lips and yes, suiting. A suit cut on Savile Row will have a slightly "padded shoulder." This defines the shoulder and compliments the suit's signature nipped waist.

Italian

While this "roped shoulder" can be found on bespoke British suits, it's the Italians that really embrace the sharp style's accentuated shape—as if the sleeve were laid over a piece of rope. The effect makes shoulders appear broader.

 
 
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A Month of Tips